Tutorial:
How to create a HDR time lapse movie using the Acadalus mc1
Creating amazing time lapse movies with the Acadalus mc1 is easy.
This tutorial guides you through the process of creating a simple HDR
time lapse movie.
At the end of this tutorial, you will be able to create your own HDR
time lapse movies, as well as normal (non HDR) time lapse movies,
simply by using your Acadalus mc1 and your Mac.
HDR stands for "high dynamic range". It is a technique which allows
photographers to capture a greater dynamic range of luminance between
the darkest and the lightest area of an image than current techniques
do.
In an HDR image, both the darkest and the lightest points of an image
are clearly visible while with common techniques, photographers would
have to choose, whether to prefer the dark or the light areas of the
image.
For further explanations, please refer to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_dynamic_range_imaging
Getting started
First we need to find a good scene for our HDR time lapse movie.
Classic subjects for time lapse movies are:
cloudscapes
plants growing
flowers opening
fruits or food rotting
buildings in construction
cars on the streets
In this tutorial, we choose our scene to be the clouds moving in the
sky.
Even on cloudy days, an HDR time lapse movie can reveal amazing
movements in the sky.
Setting up the camera
First, mount your camera on a tripod and point it at your scene. In
this tutorial, we used the Acadalus CPS-h1 to fine tune the desired
position, but you can use whatever means you like. Make sure your
camera is properly positioned and won't move during the time lapse.
Note: We recommend setting your camera to use JPEG instead of raw
files, each time lapse movie needs many pictures and therefore a lot of
space on your cameras flash drive. JPEG files are smaller than raw
files and need less computing time on your computer when you convert
them to a movie afterwards.
Nikon D300 mounted on a CPS-h1 and connected to an mc1
You may want to take some sample pictures to make sure everything is
set up properly.
We recommend you to set the camera in manual focus mode. Manual focus
mode has 2 main advantages to auto focus:
auto focus may add flicker to your movie because it can change
focus from frame to frame and thus rapidly change the blurriness of
background objects in your scene
your camera needs time to focus for each picture, thus
influencing the minimal interval time between 2 pictures in a bad way
(the minimal interval time will be explained in the next section)
Setting up your mc1 for HDR time lapse movies
After setting up your camera and tripod, power up the mc1 and connect
the camera to your mc1.
The mc1 detects then the camera and shows a small camera icon in the
top right corner of the screen, right below the battery icon. Select
now "time lapse" from the main menu.
Your screen should now look similar to this:
The Acadalus mc1 time lapse menu
For this tutorial, we took pictures for 6 hours to make a 1 min movie.
Use the ">>" buttons next to their respective text fields to
change the settings to your liking.
For HDR settings, we recommend a ΔEV value of 2 and a Brackets value
of ±1. This tells the mc1 to take 3 pictures for a HDR, each with 2
exposure values difference.
Make sure to have "Autosettings" and "HDR" enabled or your mc1 will
take a normal time lapse movie instead of a HDR time lapse.
The option "smooth motions" tells the mc1 to choose the camera settings
to leave the shutter as long open as possible, thus creating a blur
effect with fast moving objects in the scene. This option can be used
to add motion blur to the time lapse movie. In this tutorial, we
enabled the "smooth motions" option.
The bottom text field shows you a short summary on the time lapse
settings you entered.
If possible, try to keep the interval between 2 photos as high as
possible. Your DSLR needs some time to take and save the picture it
takes. Modern DSLRs take about 1-2 seconds to save 1 picture. Add this
value to the shutter speed the mc1 sets on the camera and one picture
easily takes about 3 seconds to take and save on the camera. A HDR has
usually 3 or 5 brackets, in our case, we used 3 brackets. Therefore the
minimal interval time between 2 HDR images is 10 seconds.
minimal interval time ~= 3 seconds * number of brackets
Once you are content with your settings, hit the "Measure ambivalent
light" button to setup your camera for time lapse recording.
The start button then turns green.
Once you are ready, press the start button to start recording your
movie.
Converting the pictures to HDR : creating your video frames
Once your time lapse is recorded, you can start converting them to a
movie.
Download all pictures to a folder on your computer. Please make sure
not to mix your time lapse pictures with others as the software needs
them to be in a separate folder.
Name the folder containing the HDR brackets "HDR time lapse jpges".
In the next step, we will convert the JPEG pictures we recorded to an
HDR format and tone map them.
The conversion will take the 3 pictures we took for one frame and merge
them into one ".hdr" file. This .hdr file contains the accumulated
image information of all 3 pictures. Even modern monitors can't display
the whole dynamic range of luminance saved in a .hdr file. Therefore we
have to create an image that can be displayed by normal displays. This
procedure is called tone mapping.
There are many software suits that let you create hdr files and tone
map them. In this tutorial we used Photomatix Pro, it is easy to use, gives good
results and can do batch operations.
Batch operations are necessary when creating HDR time lapses as we are
going to convert thousands of pictures and it would take too much time
if we had to do them manually one by one.
Choosing the conversion settings
First, we have to choose the settings we want to use when converting
all images. The easiest way to do this is to create one HDR image
manually and then use the same settings for all images we want to
create
Start Photmatix Pro 4.0 and
click "Load Bracketed Photos" to start a new HDR image.
loading 3 bracketed photos
Load 3
bracketed photos related to each other.
Here, we took the first 3 pictures in the time lapse. You could also
choose 3 pictures from somewhere within the time lapse as long as you
make sure they are the 3 pictures
Photomatix Pro 4.0
Now we can adjust the conversion settings. A good starting point is the
"Compressor - Deep" preset. It provides a natural look with good
contrast.
Adjust the settings until your are content with the result. Once you
are done you can save the settings by choosing "Save Settings..." in
the "Presets:" drop down bar. We recommend saving your settings in case
you may want to use them again at a later time.
Saving the settings
Now that we have chosen the settings, it is time to start the batch
process to convert all images.
You can close the preview window, we won't need it anymore. You can
save your image when prompted, but it is not necessary.
Click in the Workflow window on "Batch Bracketed Photos" to get started
with the batch process.
Select "Generate HDR image" and
"Tone map with Tone Compressor" to tell
the batch process to first create a HDR image and then tone map it.
Click the "Settings..." button next to the tone map field to load the
settings we saved before.
Next set the number of bracketed images needed for the time lapse. When
shooting the time lapse with the mc1, we used 3 images.
Now we can select the folder containing all images recorded with the
mc1. Once you loaded the folder, you should see a list of all images.
Then set the output folder for the converted images. We recommend using
a customized location as it can be tricky to separate the original from
the converted images when they are in the same folder.
Save the converted images as JPEG. JPEG files are smaller than TIFF and
the image quality is more than sufficient for video.
Save the HDR files as "Radiance RGBE (.hdr)"
Select "Remove 32-bit HDR image after tone mapping" if you only want
the tone mapped images and don't want to keep the HDR files (we won't
need the HDR files to create the final movie).
Select "Start
with filename of first image in the set" under "Naming options...",
that way the tone mapped .jpg files will use the same number format as
your camera. This helps the operating system to sort the images.
load settings
Converting the images
Now everything is set up and you
can start the batch process by clicking "Run" in the top right corner
of your window.
This might take a while, depending on how many images you are
converting and how fast your computer can process the images.
Creating the final movie
Once the batch process is done, you can create the movie from the tone
mapped images.
First check the tone mapped images and see whether they are converted
properly. If you are content with the result move on to the next step,
otherwise repeat the last section. Maybe change some settings and rerun
the batch process.
Create your time lapse movie with "Time Lapse Assembler"
Start the "Time Lapse Assembler", the program should look similar to
this.
Click "Choose..." and select the folder which contains all your
tone mapped ".jpg" files. Please make sure the folder only contains
your tone mapped images and no other files, especially no other images.
Time Lapse Assembler will take all images in the selected folder and
create a movie from them. If other images where to be in the folder, it
would also add them to the movie.
Set the same frame rate you used on the mc1, if you use another
frame rate, the length of your movie will differ from what the mc1 had
calculated but your movie will still work.
Set the dimensions to a resolution you see fit.
Common resolutions for movies are:
1920 x 1080
1280 x 720
640 x 480
Select the desired quality (we used high, as it gives a good image quality at still reasonable file sizdes).
Click "Encode" to create your movie and enjoy watching it.